一套得体的西装，是男人不可或缺的装备。有品位的男士聚在一起，很多时候都会讨论到自己身上的西装穿着如何。
A well tailored suit is an integral part of a man's gear. Men of good taste get together, and many times they talk about how they wear their suits.
为了简化问题，假设你预算有限，且仅打算定做一件西装，它要承担大多数社交功能，伴随你出差旅行，参加公司会议，面试，婚礼等等，以下按照做工、面料、款式三大块，听我慢慢道来，内容里面有个人经验，也有裁缝的意见。
In order to simplify the problem, if your budget is limited, and only to a custom-made suit, it takes most of the social function, accompany you to travel, to participate in the company meeting, interview, wedding and so on, in accordance with the following three pieces of fabric, workmanship, style, road to listen to me slowly, the content inside the personal experience, also have a tailor the views of.
1、全定制、套码
1, fully customized, sets of yards
全定制（Bespoke）就是“一人一版”，根据客户的身体数据和款式选择，来全新地制版，以伦敦萨维尔街为出名。全定制在款式选择上给予客户很多选择空间，同时也要求你对定制有所了解，以便适当地指挥裁缝。国外定制店甚形成“house style”，也就是他们自己的版型。这种版型，更接近于一种“缺省设置”或“默认模板”。
Fully customized (Bespoke) is a "one person edition", according to the customer's body data and style choice to make a new plate, the London Saville street is the most famous. Full customization gives customers a lot of choice in style choices, and also requires you to know something about tailoring so that you can tailor the tailor to the right place. Foreign famous custom shops even form "house style", that is, their own version. This version is closer to either a default setting or a default template".
济南职业装http://www.sdzzfs.com/A&S是伦敦萨维尔街上的名店，客户包括查尔斯子、舞蹈家阿斯泰尔等众多名流。在他家订制一件西装，必须经过少27次不同身体部位的量体，50个工时的全手工制作，1：1的切片剪裁，不少于3次试衣。阿斯泰尔经典的试衣，莫过于在A&S，让工人把地毯卷起，然后在硬木地板上跳舞。跳跃而起时，西装领子还在脖子上。A&S所代表了全定制西装的水平。
Pictured above is Anderson & Sheppard, chief engineer, at work. A&S is the London Saville street shops, customers include Prince Charles, Astaire and many other celebrities. To order a suit in his house, you must pass at least 27 different body parts, 50 hours manual, 1:1 cut, no less than 3 fitting. Astaire's classic dressing is no more than A&S, where workers roll up carpets and dance on hardwood floors. When jumping up, the collar of the suit was still around the neck. A&S represents the peak level of fully tailored suits.
坦白说，在国内很难寻觅萨维尔街那种级别的全定制，许多店铺介于全定制和套码，其中也有不少高手名店。比起萨维尔街，对面料的理解，对版型的运用自如，对各种服装款式的掌握，国内裁缝还有待提高。

Frankly, it is difficult to find in the domestic full custom that Saville street level, many shops between the full custom and code, which also has a lot of famous master. Compared to Saville street, on the understanding of the fabric, version type has various clothing styles to grasp, still need to improve domestic tailor.
套码，就是MTM，这也是一种定制，但是不够完全，只能调节一部分数据，通常在国外，套码的要比全定制低不少。在和裁缝交流时，一定要问清楚他们的定制属于哪种类型。
Sets of code, that is, MTM, which is also a custom, but not complete, can only adjust part of the data, usually in foreign countries, sets of yards than the full price of a lot of customization. When communicating with a tailor, be sure to ask what type of customization they have.
2、全麻衬、半麻衬、粘合衬
2, general anesthesia lining, half linen lining, adhesive lining
和世界上大多数有结构的产品一样，西装的成本和寿命主要取决于其制作方式：全麻衬、半麻衬、粘合衬，以及手工或机器制作。全麻衬是将胸衬用针线覆盖在整个胸部前片面料上。粘合衬是用胶水将胸衬粘在面料的背面。半衬是只在胸片上半部分有衬，介乎亮前两者之间。不同的结构在做工费时和成本上差别较大。
Like most of the world's structured products, the cost and longevity of the suits depend mainly on the way they are made: general anesthesia, semi linen lining, adhesive lining, and hand or machine production. The general anesthesia is to cover the lining of the chest with a needle thread on the front sheet of the whole chest. The adhesive lining is used to glue the lining to the back of the fabric. The half lining is only on the upper part of the chest X-ray. It is between the front and the back. Different structures differ greatly in time and cost of workmanship.
以上从左到右：马尾衬，定型马尾衬，毛衬，黑色粘合衬。在制作难度上，全衬西装是早期做法，也是西方大多数定制公司的标准做法，难度极大。粘合衬常见于廉价成衣。由于薄料子容易皱，衬的作用，在于为上衣胸片提供一定的“形”，造成挺拔垂感的效果。全麻衬和半麻衬是通过针线和面料缝在一起的，因此不可能有气泡现象，也不影响面料本身的垂坠感。
Above left to right: horsetail lining, Shaped Pony Tail lining, hair lining, black adhesive lining. On the difficulty of making it, it was an early practice and a standard practice for most Western custom companies, and it was extremely difficult. Adhesive lining is often found in cheap clothing. Because the thin material is easy to wrinkle, the role of the lining is to provide a certain shape for the chest X-ray, resulting in the effect of upright and vertical feeling. The general anesthesia lining and the semi linen lining are sewn together with sewing thread and fabric, so it is impossible to have bubble phenomenon, and it does not affect the sag of the fabric itself.